The key is to create a full temperature gradient so your snake can warm up and cool down as desired. Do you think that nature always stays at the perfect temperature? Of course not, and these animals are adapted to deal with the fluctuations of their region without getting sick. This temperature range contradicts what most keepers assert as “the best,” but proves that with correct husbandry, these animals are hardier than previously thought. Wild boa constrictors have been recorded active at temperatures as low as 62☏ (17☌) and up to 104☏ (40☌) between the hours of 7am and 7pm, although most of the data is clustered between 90☏ (32☌) and 66☏ (19☌). Experts recommend a 14-hour day during summer and then a drop to 75-78☏ (24-26☌) air temperature during winter, with an 8 hour day. constrictor particularly benefits from seasonal fluctuations in temperature, even if a keeper does not intend to breed. If your room temps get lower than this at night, you will need a thermostat-regulated, lightless heat source to supplement. According to climate data from boa constrictor habitat, boas are likely to be able to easily endure night drops as low as 68☏/20☌. Heating devices should be turned off at night to cause a nightly drop in temperature, which evidence suggests is the best practice for the long-term health of the animal. Overall your boa constrictor enclosure should have different areas that range from 75☏ to 90☏ for a complete thermal gradient. Reptiles are incredible because their bodies can tolerate a wide range of temperatures - in fact, experiencing changes in temperature over the course of a day and depending on location is very healthy for a reptile.īut that’s what life is like for reptiles, and since your boa isn’t in the wild, it’s your job to supply a stable heat source that they can use as needed.īoa constrictors have been proven to do well within this temperature gradient: Reptiles can’t be kept in the same conditions as a dog or cat because they are cold-blooded, which means that they rely on their environment to regulate their body temperature. The second is concerning the ProHeat panel (halfway down the page). The first is concerning the Reptile Basics panel. Here are two good writeups on radiant heat panels. I'd recommend petstore because they ship either same or next day when you place your order. they recommend one on Reptile Basics, but the ones I use, alot of folks use, because they are rather inexpensive and work beautifully, are the Reptitherm 500r (Zoo med makes them), you can pick one up off amazon or for like $25.
I'd also buy a Thermostat for that panel. Thought it was odd at first, but became really nice so I didnt have an extra two feet of power cord laying on the ground. if its too long out of the box, trim it down a bit, and just snap on the plug! No trimming down the wire or plastic. What was pretty nifty was I got my panel the other day, and I noticed it has an adapter that comes with it, the superplug, lets you make your own length outlet power wire. And everyone states that Rich from Reptile Basics is one of the most helpful people in the herp community when it comes to cages & heating. I heard alot of good things about Reptile basics, alot of folks said they were not only better priced (almost $100 less than proheat for my panel), but a bit better product overall.
I was looking into proheat myself for a panel, and they were extremely overpriced.
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